To archive a finished photography project without losing access, move the final files into a clear folder structure, keep at least two copies on separate drives, and record where everything lives in a catalog or a simple text file. Archiving is less about storage size and more about being able to find and open the images years from now.
Decide What Belongs in the Archive
Not every file deserves long-term storage. Before you move anything, sort the project into three groups so the archive stays lean and easy to search.
- Originals: the untouched raw files or camera JPEGs straight from the card.
- Edits: exported finals, edit sidecar files and layered working files.
- Deliverables: what the client or audience actually received, such as web-size copies or print files.
Most photographers keep originals and deliverables permanently, and keep layered files only when a client may ask for changes. Rejected frames can be deleted after a final pass, but only once you are sure you will not want them.
Build a Folder Structure You Can Read in Five Years
A folder name should tell a stranger what is inside. A common pattern is year, then date and project name, then subfolders for each file group.
- Create a top-level folder for the year.
- Inside it, name each project with a date and a short label, for example 2024-06-12_harbor-portraits.
- Add subfolders such as Originals, Edits and Deliverables.
- Avoid special characters and very long names, which can cause trouble when you move files between computer systems.
Keep More Than One Copy
A single drive can fail, get lost or be overwritten. A widely used guideline is three copies of important files, on two different kinds of storage, with one copy kept in a different location. That can mean a working drive, an external archive drive and a cloud service or a drive stored elsewhere.
Check the copies occasionally by opening a few random files. A backup you have never opened is only a guess that it works.
Keep Your Catalog and Edits Linked
If you use catalog software, the catalog stores your edits separately from the image files. When you archive, make sure the catalog can still find the images after they move.
- Move folders from inside the catalog software when possible, so the links update on their own.
- Save edit instructions into sidecar files or into the files themselves if your software offers that option.
- Export a copy of the catalog and store it next to the project.
- Keep a short text file in each project folder noting the camera, the date and the software version used.
Plan for Formats and Hardware Changing
File formats and connectors change over time. Raw formats are tied to specific cameras, so consider also saving a universal copy such as a full-size TIFF or high-quality JPEG of your final selections. Every few years, move the archive onto newer drives rather than waiting for an old one to stop responding.
FAQ
Should I archive raw files or only the final edits?
Keep both whenever space allows. Raw files let you re-edit with newer software later, while finals show exactly what was delivered. If space is limited, keep the raw files for your best selections and the finals for everything else.
How often should I check my archive?
A quick check once or twice a year is a sensible habit. Open a handful of files from different projects, confirm they display correctly and make sure each backup copy is still readable.
The Short Version
Sort each project into originals, edits and deliverables, store them in clearly named folders, and keep multiple copies in more than one place. Link your catalog to the files and refresh the storage every few years so your images stay easy to open.
