Focus bracketing takes a series of frames, each focused slightly farther away than the last, so you can combine them later into one image that is sharp from front to back. Many mirrorless cameras include it in the menu; set the number of shots and the step size, mount the camera on a tripod, and let it run.
When Focus Bracketing Helps
At close distances, depth of field is very thin, even at narrow apertures. Focus bracketing is most useful for macro work, product shots, flowers and close-up landscapes with a foreground subject. Very narrow apertures reduce sharpness through diffraction, so bracketing at a moderate aperture is often the better route.
Set It Up
- Mount the camera on a tripod and compose the scene. Turn off any stabilization the manual recommends disabling on a tripod.
- Switch to manual focus or single autofocus, and set the first focus point on the nearest part of the subject.
- Open the menu and find the focus bracket option, often under the drive or shooting section. Names differ by maker, and some cameras call it focus stacking or focus shift.
- Set the number of shots. A general guide is between 10 and 30 for small subjects, and more for deeper scenes.
- Set the focus step. Small steps give overlap and smooth blending, while large steps risk gaps. As a general guide, begin with a small value and adjust after a trial run.
- Set the exposure to manual so brightness stays constant across the series.
- Use a remote or timer to trigger the series without touching the camera.
- Check the frames. The first should show the nearest point sharp, and the last the farthest.
These numbers are only rough values; your lens and distance decide what works.
Camera Settings to Keep Steady
- Use manual exposure and a fixed white balance.
- Choose an aperture around f/5.6 to f/8 as a general middle ground.
- Use a low ISO and a shutter speed that suits still subjects.
- Turn off any option that changes focus or exposure between shots.
- Shoot raw for the best flexibility when blending.
Stack the Frames
After shooting, load the files into software that supports focus stacking. Photoshop and several dedicated stacking programs can align the frames and blend the sharpest areas. Check the result by zooming in on edges, where artifacts such as halos tend to appear.
| Setting | Too low | Too high |
|---|---|---|
| Number of shots | Unsharp gaps | Longer sessions, bigger files |
| Focus step | Wasted frames | Missed focus zones |
FAQ
Can I do this without the built-in feature?
Yes. Turn the focus ring a small amount between frames by hand. It takes longer and is less even, but it works.
Does wind matter?
Yes. Moving subjects change between frames, which makes blending harder, so shelter flowers or shoot indoors.
The Short Version
Use a tripod, set the nearest focus point, choose the shot count and step size, and keep exposure fixed. Check the series, then blend the frames in stacking software for a deep, sharp result.
