Infrared photos usually come out of the camera with a strong red or magenta cast, so the first job in Lightroom is to set a custom white balance and then shape the color or black and white look. The steps below give a general workflow you can adjust to your own camera and filter.
Prepare the Raw File
Shoot in raw whenever you can. A raw file keeps white balance adjustable, which matters a lot for infrared because the camera’s auto setting rarely handles the unusual light well.
- Import the files and open one in the Develop module.
- Pick the White Balance eyedropper and click on green foliage or grass in the frame.
- Expect the Temperature slider to land at a very low value and the Tint slider to move far. That is normal for this kind of image.
- Check the result: the sky should look blue or neutral and the leaves should look pale, yellow or cream.
Choose a Look
There are two common directions, and both begin with the same white balance step.
- Black and white: Use the Black and White conversion, then lower the blue and aqua luminance to darken the sky, and raise the yellow and green luminance to brighten foliage.
- False color: Keep the image in color and adjust the hue of the blue and orange channels so skies and leaves take on the tones you like. Many photographers swap the red and blue channels in an editor with channel tools, since Lightroom has no direct channel swap.
Refine Contrast and Detail
Infrared images can look flat after white balance. A gentle approach works best.
- Use Tone Curve or the Contrast slider for a modest S-curve, and set Blacks and Whites so the histogram reaches both ends.
- Add Dehaze in small amounts, as a general guide in the low double digits at most, to bring back atmosphere.
- Use a graduated filter on the sky to add depth, and a radial filter to lift a main subject.
- Treat noise and sharpening last, since infrared files often show more grain in shadows.
Save a Reusable Preset
After you build a look you like, save it as a preset. The white balance value will differ from file to file, so reset or re-pick white balance after applying the preset, and then fine-tune the rest.
Common Problems to Watch For
| Issue | Likely cause | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Image stays red | White balance not reset | Click the eyedropper on foliage |
| Hot spot in the center | Lens behavior with infrared light | Try a different lens or aperture next time |
| Muddy sky | Too much contrast | Reduce Blacks and revisit the channel mix |
FAQ
Can I edit JPEG infrared files the same way?
You can, but a JPEG has less room for the heavy white balance shift, so colors may look rough. Raw files are far more forgiving.
Why do leaves turn white or pale?
Foliage reflects a lot of near-infrared light, so it records as very bright. That is a normal feature of the style, not a mistake in your edit.
The Short Version
Shoot raw, set white balance on foliage, then choose between a black and white or false color look. Finish with gentle contrast, careful noise handling, and a preset you can reuse on later files.
